Too many amazing things to count

We woke at the very busy campground. From there we headed straight out on the Mauna iki trail recommended for the large collection of Pele's hair and the geologic fissure where part of the island is sinking and the other is twisting and falling into the sea. 

Mat of Pele's hair. 

Fissure line. 

From there to Devils throat. This was a behind the scenes event currently closed but we were tipped off by the super nice park ranger from yesterday. 

From there we Yogi'd up the pass to Mona loa road. This was a beautiful surprise of a road through Koa forest. Complete with a large white owl that we saw on the way in and out. The forest was stunning. Silver bark with lush soft spring grass below. It brought tears to my eyes. 

Mongoose skull by our lunch spot. 

From there we drive to the trail head of Mona loa trail. This is the 19 mi one way near artic treck to the summit of the 13600 ft volcano. Noteworthy of being an incredibly long gradual slope. We hiked in 2 hours. It was a stunning contrast of fog and orange lava (much older than black). 

The mist made all the spider webs look amazing. 

We found our first lava tube with tiny crystals forming at the tip of each lava drip. 

Last hike of the day was at the Bird sanctuary. An 8000 year old forest. Which is old by comparison since much of what we have hike on has been present fewer years than our parents. This was a lush deciduous forest. We became delayed when we stumbled upon an amazing lava tube. All the water droplets reflected light better than any high tech gear I have seen. 

The tube was so long we did not finish and we a hoping to go back tomorrow. Ps pack gloves for your tube exploration when you come here. 

Chris in the tube wishing we were a little better equip.  

We saw the night show at the fiery lava pit again and then I invented the over-the-toilet bath in the hotel restroom. I feel very happy to head to bed with out the sticky sweat layer. 

Hike till it hurts.

We woke at our secluded campsite before sunrise. The moonlight had drown out the neumorous stars of the night before. After a quick prep ratio we headed out the trail and were surprised by the extensive vog - volcano fog rising from the ground.  

We had a wet walk through the overgrown jungle. Below is a the fuz covered fiddle head of the giant ferns. They were as soft as puppy fur. They grow so big I felt like an insect walking below them. 

We made our way back over the lava flow but the trek was much easier with a walking stick. 

Near the parking lot was a turn off to see the mile wide  Fissure that was the source of a great lava eruption in the 1960s. It was really neat. In the background are the splatter ramparts made by the falling lava that was shot 100 feet into the air. 

After we set up at the campground (lucky because when we made it back tonight it was packed) the headed up for a ranger talk. The ranger was a temporary ranger and the friendliest and nicest ranger I can remember. 

She suggested the trail through the main caldera of Kilauea where we saw the hair like glass lava pictured below on top the a'a lava. This is called Pele's hair. 

The hike went through beautiful forest with sunlight made red by the volcano ash.  

Sun through ash over main in park eruption. 

We ended to day watching lava smoke and bubble at Jaggar museum. 

Volcanos

Woke to another amazing sunrise at the meditation center. Did I mention we could hear the waves crashing from our bed? 

An outdoor shower to ready ourselves before we headed out. 

We drove west to Volcanos National park. After a ranger talk explaining the 5 volcanos of the island we opted for a backcountry experience of hiking and camping on the Napau trail where the end gives viewes of the currently active Puu Oo volcano. 

It was a long, ankle wrenching 7.5 miles over black lava. It was like a moon-scape. The lava is hard and sharp and heavy and so varied. It is folded and cracked and rippled. Some pieces were so iridescent and shiny they looked like gems. 

We also came upon the endangered Nene Hawian geese. 

  And the craziest thing is the giant pit craters scattered through the landscape. They are hundreds of feet deep with vertical walls and nothing but lava at the base. 

We traversed 2 miles of seemingly ancient forest. 

And culminated the day with long distance views of erupting volcano. 

Meditation magic

We woke "early" to enjoy the sunrise. We are staying at a meditation and yoga retreat center south of Pahao. The room is a 15 X 20 screened in room with queen bed and optional curtains set in the jungle. The nights are full with calls of tiny tree frogs that Chris calls Bo-peep forge as this is the sound they make. And the sounds of waves at the coast. 

The sun crested as a bright pink ball at just after 6. While waiting a falcon landed just outside our screen window. And the we watched a bright green, red and blue gecko eat breakfast with a tiny pink tongue. 

From there we headed down the road on foot to a state park beach. Along the way a woman in a truck offered us a ride. When she turned right and drive on and on we started getting nervous. First about the walk back and finally about where she was taking us. Turned out she was lost but when we sorted it out and turned around we landed at an amazing natural volcanic heated spring mixed with ocean surf. It was a perfect warm temperature and I will be found there again tomorrow morning. 

From there to the biggest farmers market of the island with many local produce. We enjoyed a number of treats: stuffed  breads, papaya salad, smoothies, purple tapioca...  

That is bread with cream cheese baked in!

Then to lava tree state park where the lava engulfed trees, burned them and left hallow tubes behind. 

Then to the local point cape kumulahi. It was like a waste land of broken lava  dumping into the punishing sea. 

Finally a frog walk in the deafening jungle and now tucked into our lovely bed. A magical day. 

Technical difficulties

The first technical issue is that this is technically not the cicada River rinners as Joseph is not with us and we are not running any rivers. I hope you will forgive that but it was easy and folks have the link so it works. 

We departed Asheville 3/26/16 at 6 AM. Flew to Chicago. They have that lovely underground tunnel to concourse C with the neon lights and soothing music. We got a healthy dose of that by walking laps during our layover. 

Second technical difficulty occurred once boarded on our flight to LAX. we were de-boarded when the door latch failed. Kudos to United for having us re-boarded and flying 90 min later. 

 

Third technical difficulty was then the flight from LAX to Hilo, Hawaii ran over the tow bar and we had to go back for an inspection by maintenance. 

Hilo outdoor baggage claim. 

Fourth technical difficulty was when the 4 wheel jeep we rented completely failed to change gears or into and out of 4 wheel drive. But since this was also both complicated and new to us it was confusing and a bit stressful. We ended up with an upgrade to a Ford F-150 and that was nice. 

We arrived at our hotel 25 hours after we left home and the final technical difficulty there was no one here show us our sleeping quarters. But after a few calls including one to w guy in China we worked it out. 

All of it was well worth it. We landed in a tropical paradise meditation retreat center in a screened in room with ocean breeze, and sunrise over the pacific - but Moreno that in a later post. 

View from our room.